ELF
Shush's Handmade Stuff
This is suitable for a beginner to intermediate level.
PS: This pattern is the same as the Elf in Green pattern which is size 7-9 - foot length 24-26cms.
Women shoe size 9-11 - foot length 26-28cms
Women shoe size 9-11 - foot length 26-28cms
Requirements:
(this wool is very much like a bulky 8 ply wool, if you wish
to choose an alternative yarn)
4.50mm crochet hook
2 bells
2 bells
Abbreviations &
Explanations:
In Australia, we use English terms, please refer to chart
below for USA terms.
yoh = yarn
over hook
ch = chain
(sc) dc = double crochet – hook into next stitch, yoh, pull yarn through, yoh, pull through both loops on hook.
(hdc) htr = half
treble – yoh, hook into next stitch, yoh, pull yarn through, yoh, yarn through
all 3 loops on hook.
sl st = slip
stitch – hook into stitch, yoh, pull yarn through.
tr = treble
- yoh, hook into next stitch, yoh, pull
yarn through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, yoh, pull yarn through 2
loops on hook.
Dc decrease = hook
into next stitch, yoh, pull yarn through, hook into next stitch, yoh, pull yarn
through, yoh, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
UK/Australia Crochet Stitches - USA
Crochet Stitches
|
||
British/Australian
|
American
|
|
double
crochet (dc)
|
single
crochet (sc)
|
|
half
treble (htr)
|
half
double crochet (hdc)
|
|
treble
(tr)
|
double
crochet (dc)
|
|
double
treble (dtr)
|
treble
(tr)
|
|
triple
treble (trtr)
|
double
treble (dtr)
|
|
miss
|
skip
|
|
tension
|
gauge
|
|
yarn
over hook (yoh)
|
yarn
over (yo)
|
|
SOLE
(It’s
not important to have the exact number of stitches each row as I have, this is
just what I did, you can change this pattern any way you like as it won’t
change the look - it's actually meant to look rough - like the edge of leaves).
ROW
Starting at side of shoe at the back and using 2 strands of yarn, make 41 chain.
Starting at side of shoe at the back and using 2 strands of yarn, make 41 chain.
1 - skip 2 chain, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next
39 stitches = 40 stitches.
2 - skip 1st stitch, 1 (sc) dc in next
stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 37 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in last stitch = 39 stitches.
3 - skip 1st stitch, 1 (sc) dc in next
stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 36 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in last stitch = 38 stitches.
4 - 3 chain, skip 1st chain, 1
(sc) dc in next stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 39 stitches, 2 (hdc) htr in same stitch as
last stitch = 42 stitches.
5 - 1 chain, skip 1st space, 1
(sc) dc in next stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 40 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in last stitch = 42
stitches
6 - skip 1st stitch, 1 (sc) dc in
next stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 37 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in next stitch = 39
stitches
7 - 2 chain, skip 1 chain, 1 (sc) dc in next
stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 37 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in next stitch = 39 stitches
8 - skip 1st stitch, 1 (sc) dc in
next stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 34 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in last stitch = 36
stitches
9 - skip 1st stitch, 1 (sc) dc in
next stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 32 stitches, 1 (sc) dc in last stitch = 34
stitches
10 - 1 chain, skip 1st stitch,
1 (hdc) htr in each stitch to end
11 - continue in this manner skipping the
1st stitch in each row thereby decreasing 1 stitch in each row until
you have 24 rows and 19 (hdc) htr in that row
25 - 1 chain, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2
stitches, 1 dec, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 10 stitches, 1 dec, 1 (sc) dc in each of next
2 stitches
26 - 1 chain, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2
stitches, 1 dec, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 8 stitches, 1 dec, 1 (sc) dc in each of next
2 stitches
27 - 1 chain, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2
stitches, 1 dec, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 6 stitches, 1 dec, 1 (sc) dc in each of next
2 stitches
28 - 1
chain, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2 stitches, 1 dec, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 4
stitches, 1 dec, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2 stitches
29 - 1 chain, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2
stitches, 1 dec, 1 (hdc) htr in next stitch, 1 dec, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2 stitches
30 - 1 chain, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2
stitches, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 (sc) dc in each of next 2 stitches
31 - 1 chain, (hook into next stitch, yoh,
pull yarn through) x 6, yoh, pull yarn through all 7 loops on hook. 1 chain to secure. Don't tie off yarn, as this will be used to sew up the middle.
CREATING
A LEFT AND A RIGHT SLIPPER
Turn 1 of the slippers over before joining the
back section. The outside of the slipper
will be higher at the ankle than the inside.
BACK
ROW
1 - 2 chain, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 14
stitches, sl stitch in each of next 3 stitches, turn
2 - skip slip stitches, 1 (hdc) htr in each of
previous 14 stitches
3 - 2 chain, skip 1 stitch, 1 (sc) dc in next
stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 14 stitches, 1 sl st in each of next 3 stitches
across bottom,
4 - skip slip stitches, 1 (hdc) htr in each of
next 13 stitches
5 - 3 chain, skip 1st stitch,
1 (sc) dc in next stitch, 1 (hdc) htr in each of next 13 stitches, 1 sl st in each of next
3 stitches across bottom,
6 - crochet next row to other side of
shoe, skip 1st stitch on previous row, 1 (hdc) htr in each stitch
alternating with sl st on 1st row of other side. Tie off yarn.
CLOSING
1 (sc) dc in each stitch space up the centre of the
slipper, 1 (sc) dc in each stitch space around the ankle, 1 dc in each stitch space
down the other side of the slipper to tip at front, 1 sl st in each stitch together
with the corresponding stitch on the other side closing up the top from front
to ankle. (Mine was for a size 9-11 and I
closed up 20 rows). Then crochet 1 (sc) dc in
each stitch around the ankle working from the inside so when the top is splayed
out, it looks neat. For an extra wide foot - sew more rows of (sc) dc all around before slip stitching together.
Sew on bells.
Sew on bells.
